Annapurna Circuit Day 12

The morning came briskly as my watch starts to beep, followed by another alarm and finally a third. I sit up out of my sleeping bag and rub my eyes. I see my breath in the dry cold air and it seems like my head is steaming as I remove my beanie cap that I’ve slept in. I rub the outsides of my arms to warm up and throw on my fake North Face trekking pants, fleece and softshell jacket. Waking up today is has been one of the hardest mornings for some reasons. My throat is dry, my lips are chapped and my thirsty as hell.

I open the doors and immediately stop as a blinding wall of light comes to view. It takes my eyes a few moments to adjust as the snow is already reflecting the morning sun. I do a few jumping jacks to help my body warm up for the day and carefully walk and slide across the trail to the kitchen area of the camp. The doors open and immediately feel the warmth of firewood and the sweet smell of breakfast. All the other trekking groups are already eating and some already heading out, as this is the longest of the days. We will suddenly go from Thorung Ghedi at 4,500m (17,760ft) to the highest point at the Thorung La Pass at 5,400m and then we descend to Muktinath  at 3,800m. This mean we will roughly ascend 900m (2,953ft) and then immediately descend 1,600m (5,250ft), this totals 2500m (8,202ft) in elevation coverage. However, since we forgot to order food the day before we would have to wait for them to cook our breakfast. I quickly order breakfast which consists of pancakes, bread, omelet and coffee and head back to the lodge to pack.

By the time I scarf down my breakfast most of the groups have already long left. We head out behind the camp and start on a series of switchbacks that Joe and I ran down in roughly 20minutes the day before. This time with our gear and going uphill versus downhill it takes us around an hour. Joe and Nate venture ahead as Christine complains of headaches. I urge her to head back down and rest another day but she refuses and we decide to take things slow and break frequently. At this point we are separated into two groups.

Highcamp comes up after an hour’s worth up seriously vertical uphill climb. This camp has only place to sleep and most trekkers prefer to stay lower since there is not much up here. Regardless this camp is the last stopping point before taking on the Thorung La Pass. We break at the top on the bench next to some of the other trekkers. The sun has come out and I lounge with my pack still strapped to my back and quickly warm up. The next part of the climb is all snow and I have to remember what I learned from my Ben Nevis climb to use the edges of my boot to get good traction. Essentially I am walking like a duck with a giant pack on my back.

The rest of the trek is blinding. Christine has somehow lost her sunglass that she picked up at Manang. At first she decides to tie a plastic trash bag around her head. She somehow thinks this helps and is what “they” use to do before the days of sunglasses. Well that method doesn’t work very well and also makes you look like an idiot, so we are sharing my pair; basically taking turns wearing the shades, enjoying the views and leading the blind person. We continue taking breaks as Christine’s headache gets worse, but she decides that she is at the point of no return, opposing my caution to head down, and we continue going. We find two more tea shops along the way. The last tea shop is at the top of the pass at 5,413m. The pass is decorated with a congratulations plaque with a clutter of prayer flags blowing the wind tied to it.

From then on it was a quick all downhill descent from 5,413m to 3,800m. This descent is beautiful at first but the rain starts to move in. This is probably the loneliest part of the trek. I think besides two other trekkers it was just Christine and me. During some portions of it I was truly worried that we had somehow gotten off course. But actually since we took so many breaks we were the last trekkers on this mountain. Much to my relief Christine’s headache starts to get better and better as we descend.

This part of the trek is covered in snow but since the sun was out earlier that day has now turned to slush. And other parts that are in the shade have frozen to dangerously slick patches of ice. Christine falls down the mountain its quite entertaining. My knees are now buckling under pressure from the shenanigans of the previous day and also from stomping downhill this entire way. To help with that problem, we take plenty of breaks to enjoy the view below.

During one of our breaks I turn around to see a huge expansive black sky behind us. It’s a giant cluster of rain clouds and its moving quick. We pick up our pace and chase the disappearing sun. On the bottom of this giant downhill ravine there are a cluster of houses that have accommodations.  We see a few groups of trekkers stopping there for the night due to stomach issues, but we decide to continue to a bigger village.

At one point we can see two villages below; one to the left and one to the right. We are not sure which one to go to but after looking at a plaque we somehow decide that Muktinath. At that point there is series of bridges and the sun blinding us with her last rays of light. It is at this point that small amounts of rain start to drizzle down. It is not too long before we reach the outer walls of the village.

As we enter, I look up and see Joe running over to use shouting. Joe is already drunk and ecstatic to see us. There is a good celebration and an extra burst of energy as we are reunited with our group. Joe wasn’t sure if we were going to make and at that point it was already getting dark. But he saved us a room at their lodge.

At the lodge we say hello to our trekkers that we have been traveling with along the way. A lot of them passed me and Christine heard her complaining about her headache. They were all relieved that we made it safely. There was a big rumor that we had turned back. I guess one of the trekkers heard me urging her to take another rest/acclimatization day. Finally settled I throw my soaked shoes and socks next to the campfire and head straight for kitchen.

Annapurna Circuit Days 8-11

I wake up to a loud Thud as Joe bangs against the wall that our rooms share. “Get your ass up” I hear him yell. We leave Manang after some much needed R&R and also some time to acclimatize. The village is much bigger so it takes us sometime to get out of the residential area. We decide  to fill up on two bottles of water eat at this water station since there will shortages of them from here on out.

One of the last buildings we pass is a Gurkha training camp. Gurkhas refer to villagers from the high altitude village of Gorkha. This group also refers to a special unit of high attitude living Nepalese who have been heavily recruited into Indian and British military. If you haven’t heard of the Gurkhas, I’ll attempt to summarize who they are.

The Gurkhas are the most badass troops ever. They are notorious in both Indian and British militaries as being the Martial Race, meaning they’re naturally aggressive and warlike. Gurkhas  can kill anyone they want! How badass is that? They are said to posse characteristics of qualities of courage, self sufficiency, physical strength, resilience, the ability to work hard for long periods of time, fighting tenacity and military strategy. With a fighting motto of “It’s better to die than live a coward!” Gurkhas are so crazy that I want to crap my pants! Furthermore they still carry their traditional weapon of choice into battle, an 18in curved blade called Kukri. Gurkha tradition states that if the Kukri is drawn it has to taste blood, so if the owner doesn’t feed it with the blood of their enemies, they cut themselves as they sheath the blade. Gurkhas will flip out and chop people’s heads off ALL the time and not even think twice about it! A friend of mine told me that the Gurkhas who participated in the invasion of Iraq wanted to attack with their knives only! Now that’s what I call REAL ULTIMATE POWER!  If you don’t believe that Gurkhas have REAL ULTIMATE POWER you better get a life right now or they will chop your head off! It’s an easy choice if you asked me. The Gurkhas training camp had a no cameras sign and needless to I obeyed it.

The daily hikes take on a much slower pace. I am short of breathe with each step. For example, at this altitude getting up a flight of stairs knocks the wind of me. That’s without any gear or my pack. As we trek up, breaks become more and more frequent. It’s during this point of the trek that the porter’s amazing athletic abilities be vividly apparent. These guys are still carrying 20-25kg bags on their heads at 3,000m plus. I guess growing up in the high altitudes really has its advantages.

The worst part about trekking in snow is the slipping and sliding especially when you’re going downhill. It is downright dangerous at some points, but luckily we have our packs to fall onto. There is also the fact that it reflects light is blinding. I break out my sunnies (Australian for sunglasses) and the rest of the crew purchase pairs of fake Oakleys from the nearest village, yes amazing that they sell them up there.

The first village we arrive to is Yakharka. The snow starts to fall as we arrive and the skies darken even though it is only 3pm. There are less and less guesthouses at this attitude. Things are getting more and more expensive. The prices for items follows the elevation curve that we are on. Luckily or maybe perhaps its traditionally, we are still getting rooms for free as long as we eat at our guesthouse. With the dimming skies, we quickly crash for a cat nap. These rooms are the simplest yet. The walls are stone and cement. There is a bed, a small chair with no back and one lightbulb hanging in the middle of the room. It’s the compact florescent type and glow dimly. Joe and Nate are next door and for the first few minutes we are exchanging jokes through the cracks in our wall. It is so cold in our room but somehow I am still able to sleep. Later that night we get up at 7pm to catch dinner and then some hot chocolate at the neighboring guesthouse since our guide book recommended it. Tasted pretty normal to me.

The next day the ground is a winter wonder land from the day before. Sunlight from our only window peaks in and strikes my eyes. I squint and rub my eyes until they adjust to the light. It’s beautiful outside and the light is just right. We are still in the shade of the valley but the neighboring mountain is shiny bright. Winds are blowing the flaky snow off the peaks and everything around me is white. I climb to the top of our building on the roof. It was probably not the smartest idea to climb on a tin roof with a layer of ice and snow on top but I didn’t notice it until after I got off.

This day of trekking was revitalizing. I had stopped taking as many pictures as I go use to the scenery and now everything was new and amazing again. The coldness of the air is so refreshing and I feel like I have this new found energy. That crushing of the newly fallen snow beneath my feet was a welcome sound as set off once again into the distance.

Thorung Ghedi is our next stop and we actually get there much ahead of schedule. In fact if memory serves me right we got there around noon. If not noon, it was not much after that. I settle down in the common dining area and relax. I take the opportunity to relax and play some board games. Soon group after group of trekkers start to come in. I think this is the only guesthouse of Thorung Ghedi and the kitchen actually does an amazing job of preparing delicious meals.

Again the kitchen is on the right of the path as we enter town and the lodging area is on the left. This place is super cold. It is also one of the only places we are able to get a 4 person room which I guess makes it slightly warmer. At the same time it makes it a lot smellier and louder as night as Joe and Nate both snore. At this altitude the signs of AMS really start to kick in. Nate and Christine both complain of headaches. Soon Joe joins the group. I don’t have a migraine sized headaches like the rest of them, but I do feel slightly lightheaded. One of the trekking groups loans us their blood oxygen detection tool and everyone seems to be in the clear, but we decide to take an extra day to acclimatize to be on the safe side. The next day is the crossing. Thorung Ghedi is at 4,500m, the Thorung La Pass sits at 5,400m and then we descend to Muktinath  at 3,800m. It’s a long day and it covers a lot of km both in elevation and distance, so we decide to rest one more night for it. I ended up not getting much sleep because of Joe and Nate’s snoring, but that was fine since we are taking an additional rest day.

For the second day we change rooms so Christine and I can actually escape the smell and snoring. Joe and I decide to trek up to the next village, Basecamp, and then come back down. This is that whole safety concept of hiking up to an higher altitude and then sleeping at the slower one. Joe and I have the same competitive pace. We make it up the uphill trek fairly quickly. Towards the top the melting snow begins to form a wide shallow water fall. Luckily the boots I picked up in Dublin are quite good. After passing Basecamp we head out to a scenic view area. It overlooks the Thorung Ghedi village below and has strung up prayer flags everywhere. The view was amazing and the skies clear. Below I could see the helicopter landing pad as a small “H” and then a few blue dots as the roofs of the village.

It was quite slippery getting up there since the snow was smelting and the tracks had frozen to ice. At the top we ran into one of the porters that have been with us the entire time. We chatted briefly and took a few snap shots before resting in the sun at camp. There we talked to most of the groups that were making the pass.

For some reason we decide to race on the way down. It kind of reminded me of the time when Casey and I got stuck on a mountain and the only down was this rock quarry [link].  The rocks slide out from under you as you’re walking down. We were essentially skiing downhill on rocks with hiking boots. Well same situation here but smaller rocks and a longer fall. Somehow we don’t  kill ourselves scrambling down the mountain. It took us 2hours to walk up, but we by-passed all the switchbacks and made it down in roughly 20minutes. Needless to say, it was a pretty stupid idea since our knees are now shot but it was still a fun time.

At the bottom we find Nate and Christine chillin’ in the lounge and join them for some instant coffee and lunch. We rest the remainder of the day and prepare for the following climb tomorrow.

Annapurna Circuit Day 7

Sitting at 3,519meters the city of Manang is one of the largest villages that we visit. NGOs  have setup various accommodating features such as two movie theaters (more on that later), fresh water stations, and free AMS informational seminars. The accommodations are much better here as well as the food served at these guest houses. The garden burger at our guesthouse is a specialty and is actually surprisingly good. By the way, in the picture below I am wearing my Ski Dubai gloves, they turned out to be a good purchase afterall =).

One of the first things I am see upon entering the gates is the free informational AMS and mountain safety seminar. I check out the first one available and a volunteer doctor from Chi-town gives a presentation about AMS or Acute Mountain Sickness or more commonly known as altitude sickness. I actually hadn’t had much information about this dangerous effect. We were going to take a day to acclimatize, as suggested in our old school Nepal guidebook, but I didn’t really understand why. I’ll go over some of the info I learned in the session.

WARNING: I am by no means a doctor or qualified to give medical advice on AMS. None the less here are some of the things that Mr. Chi-Town Doc went over in the seminar. Different people have different susceptibility to AMS and it is not determined by differentiating factors such as age or physical fitness; although it is said that AMS affects less in elders compared to younger people. AMS starts to show its effects at different altitudes in different people, but the usual consensus is altitude above 2500m will be grounds in which AMS can be felt. The oxygen percentage remains at a constant 21% up until 20,000m, but the concentration of oxygen molecules decreases. This causes a smaller amount of oxygen per breathe. At Manang’s altitude we are already breathing 40% less oxygen molecules per breath.  This will decrease more and more the higher we climb. In addition the decrease in pressure causes fluid leakage which causes some of the symptoms of AMS. This is also why elder people are less susceptible to AMS; they have a larger gap between their brain and skull where these fluids collect. This is also the reason why it is important to keep hydrated and to pee out these extra fluids.

The effects of AMS include fatigue, dizziness, headaches, shortness of breath, and loss of appetite. Some of the things that we can do help adjust to altitude is acclimatize as soon as we cross 3,000m, take a day trip to ascend to a higher altitude and then come down and sleep at a lower attitude, ascend slowly, drink plenty of water, pee frequently, no more beers, and being alert to the symptoms. If AMS is ignored and the symptoms continue it could lead to CMS, Chronic Mountain Sickness which is fatal if left untreated. There is also a pill you can take called Acetazolamide that helps with the effects. Joe, Nate, and Christine ended up buying some so I can’t really attest to its effectiveness. Besides the shortness in breathe, I wasn’t really affected by AMS, I guess It is because of my large spaces in my head between my brain and skull =).

Taking that informational session into heart, I tell the boys  to stop drink as they have beering it up with each meal since we left. I start to conscientiously drink more water and slow my pace. And as planned previously we take a rest day in Manang thus spending two nights. During our rest day I take a hike up the mountain top to see the glaciers with two Brits that have been with our pace since day two. The peak we are climbing has a coffee shop (more like a shack) up top. There are stumps that have been shaped into benches and a view point for the glacier. The trek up was not too bad but the melt snow makes a pretty muddy descent. Nepalese prayer flags drift with each gust of wind and the view into the distance makes this place feel much colder and desolate.

During the afternoon Joe and I play chess in the lounge area of our guesthouse. The chessboard is wood and there is a missing pawn so a bottle cap is used in its place. There are also cards and connect four. The chess game goes on for hours and soon the match ends with a score of 2-5 me. Soon the daylight is gone and dinner is served as a crowds gather in the lounge to have supper. We sit scattered between the various trekking groups since we came down late for dinner. I sit with a group of Irish that have taken the day to trek to a frozen lake. I think to myself “next time” and enjoy my boca burger and coffee.

After dinner the weather changes and snow begins to fall. Joe and I have a look up on the roof. Our rooms are two penthouse suites, with a paper thin wall which I can hear Joe and Nate snoring through. Right next to our pad is the top of the roof with exclusive access via our window. So Joe and I decide to have a snowball fight up on in which we both almost slip off. Nonetheless it was totally worth falling to our death because of the views were amazing.

Later that night we are all bored with nothing to do. We were surprised to find there Manang actually h as two theaters and my theaters I mean various small rooms with a tv, benches, coal/wood heating playing pirated DVDs. We round up a few more people from our guesthouse and watch 7 years in Tibet which seemed to be a pretty suitable movie for the situation. The other choice was Everest, but none of us really wanted to get depressed in our trekking. During the middle of our movie the guy that was keeping our TV room warm fell asleep and started to snore. He woke up when the burner door came crashing open and resumed working.

Annapurna Circuit Days 4 – 6

The terrain changes quite fast and soon we are seeing more and more snow capped peaks. The trails have now become steeper and that once lush green has now been replaced. There are still trees and vegetation but they become scarcer and scarcer. Most of the trees now are conifers and pine needles litter the ground.

We have now become accustomed to all the various trekking groups that are doing the trek within our same time frame. There is a large group of 20 or so Irish couples that are in their 40-50’s. They are doing the typical package tourist trek where there is a guide and a group of porters carrying all their gear. Their itinerary has already been planned out and they know exactly which village and lodge they will be staying in. There is a group of 4 or 5 Isrealis who have two porters between them. They keep to themselves and keep a slow pace. We are usually at the same pace as their two porters who speak amazingly good English. They both carry 20kg of weight on their backs with a group tied across their forehead for additional support. This method of carrying packs is seen throughout the trek as we come across locals moving cargo up and down the mountain.

Joe and I have acquired some walking sticks. They help quite a bit during uphill and downhill grade changes. They are especially helpful when the surfaces are slick and weight distribution is crucial. Besides that they are also great fun during an impromptu stick fight or some random quick game of baseball with pinecones. I am able to use this walking stick comfortably, but I lose about a half inch every day.

The higher we go the longer it takes for our food to get prepared. Water takes sometimes hours to boils at this altitude so dinner and breakfast have to be ordered well ahead of time. The local food of choice here is Dal Bhat. Dal Bhat is basically rice, lentil soup, and a spicy vegetable curry dish. This is the Nepalese bread and butter and is usually eaten for all meals. One of the guesthouse owners told us he has eat Dal Bhat for every meal and every day since he was little. The reason I eat Dal Bhat for dinner is for multiple reasons. One, the western dishes go up in price exponentially the higher up we go and usually go down in quality. Two, Dal Bhat is served buffet style. After a long day’s hike I need my carbs and I am guaranteed to be full with this choice. And third, probably the most important reason, Dal Bhat is the staple of the locales, which means it will be made regardless of whether we order it. If I were to order say a Spaghetti Bolognese, the locals would have to work extraordinary harder to boil more water and make an extra type of food and use up what little lumber they have. As we move higher up in altitude the lumber has be brought up via donkeys. As simple of Dal Bhat is, it is not made equally and the quality varies from guesthouse to guesthouse.

Sometimes our days are super short and we arrive in the town extra early. During these occasions I like to wander around town and see what the local way of life is. Sometimes I’ll see kids on their way to and from school. It is amazing how poor these rural areas are and yet the people here are all content with what they have. The children especially here are all extremely happy. They are always smiling and always wave at the foreigners. Since I look Nepalese most of them will greet me in their native tongue, which is always confusing when I try to convey the fact that I don’t speak Nepalese. Speaking of being mistaken for Nepalese, it has actually happened quite a bit. Sometimes when we all site down at the restaurant they owners will automatically bring out Nepalese tea and Dal Bhat. The locales here mistake me for a porter or guide and porters and guides eat/drink free.

The natural beauty of Nepal is amazing. I cannot describe it in words and the pictures do not do it justice. The sheer size of the mountains and the tiny little trails that web throughout these ranges make me infinity small. The natural beauty of the snow covered peaks, the water as it carves through the mountains and the blue expansive skies accompany me every step of the way.

In the last few nights, we have seen snowfall which makes the landscape completely baron with a white blanket of snow. There are no footprints outside of the trails and the beauty of the untouched virgin snow is amazing. There is a compacting crunching sound with each step over the snow and it reminds of playing out in the snow as a child. The wind blows snowflakes from the collected mounds on the mountain top and it provides a nice chill during trekking. The last day we reach Manang, at roughly  3,519 meters or 11, 545 feet. It is here that we first learn about the dangers of altitude

Annapurna Circuit Days 1 -3

The Annapurna Circuit officially starts with the initial checkpoint where Nepalese trekking officials check our permits and we sign in so the Nepalese know to rescue us if we fail to checkin for an extended period of time. The weather is hot so shorts and tshirts are more than adequate. Without a guide, porter or map we go off of an eight year old guide book that Joe and Nate picked up in Kathmandu. Although it is the old the direction is still the same and the towns serving as check points and lodging destinations have largely remained the same.

We take several wrong turns initially, but the Nepalese are so use to trekkers that anyone seeing us straying from the path yells at us, smiles and points us in the right direction. The path goes down in elevation initially and then up. This up and down continues throughout the rest of the day which makes the day one pretty hard since we are always climbing or descending which puts quite a bit of pressure on your legs. Nonetheless the views are absolutely amazing. For most of the trek we stay following rivers and stream coming off of the Himalayas.

The first few days are warm especially when the sun is out and slightly chilly when we are trekking in the shadows of the mountains. After being worried about the conditions of the trails we are lucky that they have so far been in perfect condition. There are usually main different trails that we can actually take. For the most part all the trails seem to follow along the Annapurna Circuit heading from village to village up the mountains.

The accommodations are basic. Since we have four in our group we are able to get accommodations for free as long as we have our meals at the lodge. The villages are full of guesthouses that serve food, provide lodging, and have common rooms. We are able to shower the first few nights but the higher the elevation the less we are inclined to since it is so cold.

The first lodge had small rooms with wicker like walls.  You could hear all the sounds from the neighboring rooms. The showers and toilets were outside. The middle area had several benches where food was served. I took a shower in the tiny bathroom stall next to a spider the size of my head with yellow and black markings. As soon as I dried off and hung up my towel the thunder rolled in and rain started to drizzle down. We had to take shelter in our rooms, but that was fine seeing how tired I was. At night it rained heavily. The tin roofing came to life and our room suddenly became a speaker box. It was so loud I couldn’t even hear myself think.

The next day we started at 9am much later than most of the trekker staying in our lodge. However our pace was much faster than theirs and we quickly catch up to them. Seeing/hearing how much it rained the night before I was surprised at how well the trails were. I guess the incline really helps irrigate out the excess water. During day two, we see all the other traffic that runs up and down this trail. Groups of donkeys go up and down exchanging supplies. A lot of the villages rely on these paths for their food and anything else that they can’t grow and make themselves. Because of this, our snickers bar doubles in price every few villages that we pass.

For the most part the views are roughly the same. There is much vegetation and trees giving the landscape a lush green look. Step farming is used in this region and the trails winds up and down the valley crossing between them. Steady glacial streams usually run parallel with our path and the occasional waterfall provides a nice break every once and a while. There are so many places to stop and enjoy the view sometimes it’s hard to keep going.

My usual routine is to wake up around 7 or 8 am depending on the length of trek for the next day. We have breakfast at our lodge which for me usually consists of an omelet, coffee and bread. Lunch is taken randomly whenever we run into a small village around noon or 1-2ish. Sometimes I’ll buy food and carry along the way to eat at a more remote place. Throughout the day I snack on snickers, candy, bread, pastries and chug as much water as I can. There are drinking water stations throughout the trail and it makes drinking water easily and cheaply accessible. These stations have been setup by NGO’s to help both trekkers and villagers. The day’s worth of trekking ends anywhere from 3 to nightfall. By that time we have time to check into our rooms rest for a bit while dinner is being prepared.

Sleeping during this trek has been some of the best and deepest sleep I’ve ever gotten. With exception to one day I think I’ve slept effortlessly from crawling into my down sleeping bag until my alarm clock the next morning. Being in the cold definitely has its advantages, but getting up and out of the warmth of my sleeping bag in the morning is always a chore.

Christine and I meet up with Joe and Nate who are both traveling from Dubai. They both just left Dubai like me so we’ve got much to talk about. Its funny to hear that other travelers get the same experience when visiting Dubai and we all have a good laugh at how weird and backwards that place is. We end up checking out one of the best nightclubs in Kathmandu. Sadly to say it was far from what I expected. I guess in a country like this people don’t have much time party. Free time is spent much differently that how you’d normally expected.

The bus from Kathmandu to Besishar leaves early in the morning and are filled with tourists. Some people are heading to Pokhara and others to start the circuit at Besishar. Midway the bus changes and we left to wait for another bus. The last leg of the journey we end up taking an old rusty thick fume shooting bus. The funniest part is that there is no room in inside so we end up sitting up top with a goat, some chickens and bunch of bags. The only dangerous, well one of the dangerous, aspects of riding on the roof of the bus are the lower hanging tree branches and power lines. Its not a catnap or a sit back and enjoy the view ride as we have to keep a close eye for these things. That’s not to say the view wasn’t anything but stunning.

Besishar is tiny. I waited to get some items until the start of the trek, thinking that it might be cheaper here. Instead we find a place that has few hotels and not much in terms of gear and hiking essentials. Thus I am missing a down sleeping bag and Christine doesn’t even have hiking boots. So we split. Christine and I head over to Pokhara, the ending point for the Annapurna Circuit, via bus and Nate and Joe will be staying in Besishar to meet us up the next day to start the trek.

By the time I arrive to Pokhara it is already night and we find a hotel room and then eat dinner. The restaurants in Pokhara are amazingly modern and theres a wide select of western cuisine from all over the world. We choose an Italian place that has some really good thincrust pizza. Later in the evening we pick up two sleeping bags and then Christine grabs her shoes.

The next morning we get up early to catch the first group of tourist buses that leave. We walk towards the bus station and can’t seem to find it. With time running out, we hail the first cab. After taking a couple of minutes to secure our bags to the top, we take the first corner and pull into the first building to the bus station all while paying the full price for a cab. I’m in a zombie like trance as I zone out on the busy ride back to Besishar. The only thing that wakes me is an Isreali girl with an incredibly nasally voice arguing with bus driver about which seat she wants to sit in.

The Annapurna Circuit is one of the main reason for coming to Nepal. This is a world famous trek that draws hikers from all across the globe. I first heard about it in India. I ran across several groups of people that had done it, exclaiming that it was one of the best things they’ve done on their trip. This trek takes around 17-21 days, although I have heard of people doing it in 16. It showcases some of the best scenery in Nepal and takes us as high as 5416m, or 17,769 feet, nuff said.

Our preparation for the Annapurna Circuit was done mainly in Kathmandu. In the tourist area the streets are lined with outdoor stores selling fake northface, mountain hardware, mammoth, etc gear all aimed to get travelers prepared for the various trekking. I still had my boots that I first got in Dublin so I was mainly looking for clothing and some insulation. I had sent my down sleeping bag home a long time ago since I have been traveling in perpetual summer season. So now I find myself for the first time ever in a winter situation.

Christine and I hunt around pretty much all of the stores around the area. It gets to a point where I get stores mixed up and cant remember which prices correspond with which store. In our shopping I discover that there are various grades of the fake stuff and I opt to get the best quality fake gear. I end up getting a pair of waterproof/wind blocking trekking pants, a soft shell jacket, a synthetic shirt, fleece jacket and a LED headlamp. All of this comes to less than 100 USD.

In addition to gear I also have to purchase two different cards in order to trek anywhere in the Annapurna range. One is for access to trek that area and the other is insurance for the trek, which includes emergency evacuation. There are checkpoints throughout the circuit where you check in and the rangers keep track of trekkers in this manner.

Old Woman @ Monkey Temple - Kathmandu, Nepal

Kathmandu feels like India and in fact some of the Nepalese look very much like Indians. The food here is pretty closely related to the Indian food that we had in the north. There is a lack of quality meat and vegetables and that is quickly noticed within our first few dinning selections. This country is much poorer than India and in turn their cuisine is much poorer as well.

There is a power cut that lasts throughout the day. So during our daily exploration of the city the smell of diesel powered generators and that low generator hum can be experienced throughout the city. It seems that a hydro-electric power plant broke or was damaged a few years back. Since then Nepal doesn’t have enough energy for the demands of the capital. Their solution is to cut power from 11am to about 6 or 7pm daily.

Kathmandu is very polluted and the air is thick. On some days it is difficult to see into the distance. The constant exhaust fumes from the numerous motorbikes and cars seem to linger on the streets making it difficult to breathe. Most of the motorist wears masks, not the typical surgical masks. They actually have stylish ninja looking masks that they wear. Its actually pretty cool looking.

Nepalese people are extremely friendly and apparently I look Nepalese because they usually come up to me speaking Nepalese. Either way I am greeted by helpful people with warm smiles everywhere I go. It’s an amazingly welcoming culture.