Annapurna Circuit Days 1 -3

The Annapurna Circuit officially starts with the initial checkpoint where Nepalese trekking officials check our permits and we sign in so the Nepalese know to rescue us if we fail to checkin for an extended period of time. The weather is hot so shorts and tshirts are more than adequate. Without a guide, porter or map we go off of an eight year old guide book that Joe and Nate picked up in Kathmandu. Although it is the old the direction is still the same and the towns serving as check points and lodging destinations have largely remained the same.

We take several wrong turns initially, but the Nepalese are so use to trekkers that anyone seeing us straying from the path yells at us, smiles and points us in the right direction. The path goes down in elevation initially and then up. This up and down continues throughout the rest of the day which makes the day one pretty hard since we are always climbing or descending which puts quite a bit of pressure on your legs. Nonetheless the views are absolutely amazing. For most of the trek we stay following rivers and stream coming off of the Himalayas.

The first few days are warm especially when the sun is out and slightly chilly when we are trekking in the shadows of the mountains. After being worried about the conditions of the trails we are lucky that they have so far been in perfect condition. There are usually main different trails that we can actually take. For the most part all the trails seem to follow along the Annapurna Circuit heading from village to village up the mountains.

The accommodations are basic. Since we have four in our group we are able to get accommodations for free as long as we have our meals at the lodge. The villages are full of guesthouses that serve food, provide lodging, and have common rooms. We are able to shower the first few nights but the higher the elevation the less we are inclined to since it is so cold.

The first lodge had small rooms with wicker like walls.  You could hear all the sounds from the neighboring rooms. The showers and toilets were outside. The middle area had several benches where food was served. I took a shower in the tiny bathroom stall next to a spider the size of my head with yellow and black markings. As soon as I dried off and hung up my towel the thunder rolled in and rain started to drizzle down. We had to take shelter in our rooms, but that was fine seeing how tired I was. At night it rained heavily. The tin roofing came to life and our room suddenly became a speaker box. It was so loud I couldn’t even hear myself think.

The next day we started at 9am much later than most of the trekker staying in our lodge. However our pace was much faster than theirs and we quickly catch up to them. Seeing/hearing how much it rained the night before I was surprised at how well the trails were. I guess the incline really helps irrigate out the excess water. During day two, we see all the other traffic that runs up and down this trail. Groups of donkeys go up and down exchanging supplies. A lot of the villages rely on these paths for their food and anything else that they can’t grow and make themselves. Because of this, our snickers bar doubles in price every few villages that we pass.

For the most part the views are roughly the same. There is much vegetation and trees giving the landscape a lush green look. Step farming is used in this region and the trails winds up and down the valley crossing between them. Steady glacial streams usually run parallel with our path and the occasional waterfall provides a nice break every once and a while. There are so many places to stop and enjoy the view sometimes it’s hard to keep going.

My usual routine is to wake up around 7 or 8 am depending on the length of trek for the next day. We have breakfast at our lodge which for me usually consists of an omelet, coffee and bread. Lunch is taken randomly whenever we run into a small village around noon or 1-2ish. Sometimes I’ll buy food and carry along the way to eat at a more remote place. Throughout the day I snack on snickers, candy, bread, pastries and chug as much water as I can. There are drinking water stations throughout the trail and it makes drinking water easily and cheaply accessible. These stations have been setup by NGO’s to help both trekkers and villagers. The day’s worth of trekking ends anywhere from 3 to nightfall. By that time we have time to check into our rooms rest for a bit while dinner is being prepared.

Sleeping during this trek has been some of the best and deepest sleep I’ve ever gotten. With exception to one day I think I’ve slept effortlessly from crawling into my down sleeping bag until my alarm clock the next morning. Being in the cold definitely has its advantages, but getting up and out of the warmth of my sleeping bag in the morning is always a chore.

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